Examples of how to use my welded faceplates - Click on an image to enlarge
|This is a flat vacuum fixture about 5 inches in diameter faced with a mouse pad. The wood part is MDF. The faceplate is glued and screwed to the wood. The rubber pad overlaps the edges by about 3/8 inch to form a seal against the inside of a bowl or other curved object. I find that it is often helpful to put a bead of hot melt or RTV adhesive around the weld to stop any leakage there.|
|This is a hollow vacuum chuck that I use for holding convex objects (like when you need to polish the inside of a bowl), or to hold a natural edged bowl for cleaning up the foot. The base is MDF as before, the tube is PVC drain pipe, and the rim of the pipe is made of hot melt adhesive, that is turned to shape on the lathe after it hardens.|
Here is a picture of a pile of these faceplates cooling off after being welded
here is a suggestion or two from Ron Alexander with respect to setting up your vacuum system:
My system is up and running; can't wait to get a bowl on it. I
found a couple
of tips you might or might not want to use in your book.
I found an excellent sealing material at Home Depot. Called "Top Mat Plus",
It is a non-slip pad used to cushion tools in a drawer. It is a soft black
rubber, very flexible, fiber reinforced, 3/16" thickness, compresses well,
and does not slip. It's made by American Non-Slip Products
(www.americannonslip.com). A 17" x 26" pad sells for $5.86.
I used a different idea for a muffler. I mounted a length of pipe insulating
jacket, the type used to prevent freezing, on the outlet. The soft foam
absorbs sound very well.
I look forward to the publication.